On Sunday August 2nd, forty five people gathered in this hidden graveyard under clear skies.  Many were descendants of the first settlers of this Northwest corner of the Earltown district.  Others were just fascinated with cemeteries.

The earliest inscribed death bears the year 1830.  Hugh MacLeod was a native of Urachyle on the banks of the River Brora in the Parish of Clyne.  Hugh, his wife Marion, and four near adult children were among the last to be evicted by the Sutherland Estate in the year 1821.  They arrived in Pictou later that year and were pointed to the wilderness of West Earltown to begin a new life.  Nine hard years later, Hugh was laid to rest in a small clearing sandwiched between the flanks of Spiddle Hill and the Waugh River.

There were earlier deaths in this infant community.  However the remains were interred in what is now called MacKenzie Cemetery.  It had been consecrated in 1822 as part of a proposed church yard near the geographic centre of the growing community.   It would have been an arduous journey over rough paths and trails for a distance of six miles.  By the late 1820’s, it was likely decided that West Earltown, and the area later known as The Falls, needed a more accessible site.

Accessible is not the first thing that comes to mind when one travels along a one lane track between a steep forested slope on the left and a river bank on the right, eventually ending up at a “dead end” in more ways than one.  However in 1830 this was the main road between The Falls and Earltown, with the road continuing along the base of the hill to the present day community of West Earltown.  A few years later, another wider road was cut through to Earltown on the opposite side of the river.   The cemetery was known as Riverside throughout the late 1800’s but Murray’s became the name of choice in the 1900’s.  Access was always through the neighbouring Murray farm.

Over fifty of those interred therein were present during the large scale evictions of Strath Brora during 1820 and 1821.  The balance of the cemetery is largely made up with the following two generations of these families.

Not only is this site a memorial to a substantial body of emigrants to a new settlement,  it is a memorial to a dark chapter in the history of Sutherlandshire.

Map:  https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?hl=en&authuser=0&mid=zWuNe7Aar9m4.k5r_NRTcKRXs

The early settlers had to endure many hardships. They were not accustomed to working in a forest, they were susceptible to injury, food was scarce while the land was being cleared and then there was the weather – hotter summers and colder winters. Solitude was another hardship as many of these Scots previously lived in a cluster of several families, whether in a well traveled area or in a remote glen.
Many of our first families came over as part of a group and settled as a group. Often they were able to pick land close to a relative or friend. However there were exceptions whereby a lone settler would enter the district and be given a location well removed from others.
The late Lawrence and Margie (MacKenzie) Wilson used to tell the story of one such settler in Earltown. His name has since been forgotten. The settler took a less travelled trail into the community and located his proposed grant deep in the forest at a considerable distance from the nearest settlement. He set about erecting a crude shelter and started to clear his land. After many days, potentially weeks, he was in despair with loneliness and homesickness. He was about to abandon his grant and seek another situation closer to Pictou.
Then early one morning he heard the echo of an axe biting into a tree. He followed the sound and in short order discovered not only another living soul but someone that he knew from the Old County.
The settler always claimed that the sweetest sound he ever heard was the bite of that axe.

PS    Alex MacKay of Vancouver has recently provided notes of his late father, John A. MacKay, with a similar version of this story.  The forlorn settler was his ancestor Donald MacKay of MacBain’s Corner.  When investigating the sound of the axe, he discovered that his new neighbour was his half brother, Big William MacKay.

In a forgotten corner of West Earltown and The Falls, in the shadow of Spiddle Hill, lies Murray’s Cemetery. It is not visible to the travelling public nor are there any signs to lead one up a single track road along the Waugh River to this very tranquil and very historic spot.
This was the cemetery that served the above two communities from the 1830’s through to 1900. It is the resting place of a couple of generations that were, for the most part, evicted under duress from their ancestors’ homeland in Strath Brora, Sutherlandshire. They chose to emigrate to Pictou and reassembled as a Strath Brora community in exile, clearing the heavily forested slopes in the northwest corner of Earltown.
On Sunday, August 2nd, we will be conducting a guided walk among the monuments of these exiles, remembering their past, their struggles and their contribution to their new community. We will see the stone of Rev. William Sutherland, a settler and farmer, who was never called but served the area nonetheless. Nearby is the memorial to Catechist Baillie, one of the “Men of Sutherland” who was revered and feared in the days before the ministers. Then there are the two Eliza’s, one the legendary “Scotch Lady” who was lured from Glasgow to marry a cousin, (spoiler alert – she died single!), and the other Eliza who was “done wrong” in every sense. These are just some of the colourful characters that will be featured.
This event is part of the annual Earltown Gathering centered at Sugar Moon Farm. People may assemble at Sugar Moon prior to 10 AM at which time they will be guided to the cemetery. For those who know the way and wish to go there directly, access is currently off the Gil Sutherland Road and through the Edwin Cameron farm. It is highly recommended that you park at the far end of the farmstead, (near the old bridge), and we will provide transportation for the remainder of the way. The road is single lane and there is only parking for three vehicles at the site.
There is no admission fee for this event but donations will be accepted, if you are so inclined, towards the maintenance of the cemetery.

UPDATE: The Cameron family has indicated that people may park in a pasture immediately past the cemetery.  The road is in good shape but one should proceed with caution.  For those with low vehicles, we will still arrange for lift from the farmyard.  It is also a pleasant 10 minute stroll.

Readers of this blog may also be interested in following the posts on historylinksdornoch.   The blog explores the history and archaeology of Dornoch and surrounding areas in Sutherland, Scotland.   It is a collaboration between Historylinks museum in Dornoch and the Centre for History at the University of the Highlands and Islands, and moderated by Dr. Elizabeth Ritchie.  Dr. Ritchie is an enthusiastic scholar of the history of Sutherland, particularly in the areas of religion, education, emigration and women’s issues.

You will find a post entitled  It’s Complicated …The Relationship of William Murray and Girzel Grant: Part 1.     This couple, who embodied the notion that opposites attract,  were parents to three emigrant families to West Pictou and Earltown.   Janet Murray MacIntosh settled near Elmfield in 1812, Robert Murray “Valley” settled near East Earltown in 1819 and Donald Murray “Craig” settled several years later atop the Craig in Loganville.   Part II will appear in the near future after which this blog will flesh out the continuing story of the family in Nova Scotia.

Enjoy !!

This letter was written by Alex Murray, brother of William’s wife Sybella Murray MacKay.  Alex was also a brother of Robert Murray, “Stager” of Earltown and he makes mention of his brother in the greetings.  Alex is living in the Parish of Creich on the opposite side of the Kyle of Sutherland from William’s home parish of Kincardine, Ross.   Consequently he is well acquainted with William’s family and friends.

Of particular historical interest is the mention of clearances taking place nearby.  It would appear to be the Glen Calvie clearance after which the people took refuge in the churchyard of Croick.

To William M’Kay,   Newfield

Earltown Settlement

By Pictou Nova Scotia

North America

Clashnashinag, May 30, 1845

Dear Brother by receiving this short epistle you will understand that I received your most welcome letter on the 15^th of April last, and I am overjoyed to hear that you and your wife and family and the rest of my relations there were in the land of the living and in the place of hope at the date of your letter.   As this leaves me at present, my wife and family, my Brothers and Sisters, and all our relations as far as I know, except Alexr M’Kay’s wife, my uncle’s daughter – she is always sickly. Hugh my uncle is poorly in health. He got a fall about six or seven years ago and he is going on crutches since.   Appy my Aunt died last year

I think you forgot writing to Mr. Alex Ross and sister – they are always inquiring about you when they happen to see me. Please to give my best respects to Christian and her husband – I forgot his name, to Kenneth and his wife, to George and his wife to John and William, not forgetting Robert, my brother, and his wife and family. And tell him that I did not forget him yet but he thinks I did. I would to like to hear from him now and then; But for myself I would sooner travel a days journey than to begin to write, for my hand shakes and my sight fails me.

I am told that a number of the tenants in Gleann Palawarg** in Ross Shire were summoned out of their farms and has no place to go to…and I a m told that that a civil officer or a lawyer came dwon from Edinburgh for to see them and that he desired them to put tents up in the churchyard for such a time and then to take rooms in Tain and to be good to themselves.   I suppose that the Man that put them out must provide for them while they live, or give back their farms to them again. There is some of the great men that would not allow the lower people to live at all if they could. They are worse since this separation took place than before.

I have nothing particular to acquaint you of at present. Provisions are cheap and plentiful, oatmeal 16 s per bole, potatoes __ per bole, very little demand for cattle.

Remember me to David Grant and wife and tell him John his brother is well and that his wife died. Remember me to Strachan Gordon. Adam and his wife wishes to be remembered to you all – there is none of his children living but Barbara and Anne.   My wife and sisters joins me in sending our best respects to you and your wife,

I remain your loving Brother Ales’er Murray

** Very hard to transcribe. It could be Balawairg, Balawaing, Calawairg.

Introduction

Highland emigration to Nova Scotia is often portrayed as a traumatic event after which the emigrants permanently left their homeland thus concluding all contact with those left behind.   In many cases that would be true.  Those with the literacy skills to conduct correspondence  were in the minority, both in Nova Scotia and Scotland.  Some, like those from Clyne,  left communities that became totally vacant.  Others came as part of an extended family with little need to keep in touch with people back home.   Consequently there are very few surviving documents of communication between the old and new settlements.

Earltown did have at least one settler who not only kept in touch with family and friends in Scotland but actually kept the letters.   William MacKay “Achany”  corresponded for a number of years with siblings, nieces, nephews and old acquaintances in his home Parish of Kincardine as well as his wife’s family in Rogart and Dornoch.   We don’t have any of the letters written by William but a portfolio exists of original letters addressed to  “William MacKay, settler, Newfield, Earltown by Pictou, America”.

The letters give insight into the continuing struggles of the crofting class back in Scotland.   Some make reference to the unpopular moderation of the Kirk,  a precursor to the formation of the Free Church of Scotland in the 1840’s.   Certain writers inquire about the possibility of getting free land in Nova Scotia should they decide to emigrate.  A few letters give insight in the customs of the times such as providing mourners with a wee dram at a graveyard burial.

Many of the letters are difficult to follow.  The education of the writers may have been limited but the main contributing factor is that the writers were trying to convey their Gaelic thoughts in written English, their second language.   As one Mr. Murray writes  “I don’t know how to put the English to it”.

William MacKay “Achany” was born in the Parish of Kincardine, Ross, in 1783.  In adult life he lived at Invercarron at the confluence of the Carron and the Kyle of Sutherland.  This area was part of the Achany Estate, a one time Munro holding that straddled the boundary of Ross and Sutherland.  When William arrived in Earltown, he was nicknamed “Achany” to distinguish him from a number of other William MacKays. He married Sybella Murray of Rogart in Scotland.   Sybella’s brother and mother emigrated to Earltown in 1819, (the Stager Murrays), which may account for William and Sybella arriving in Earltown a few  years later.

William and Sybella’s homestead was located on the Campbell Road at Central Earltown.  Their sons William and John lived on this road as well.   A son, Kenneth, lived at West Branch while another son George settled on the Peter MacDonald Road at The Falls.  Their only daughter Christy married George Henderson of Kildonan and West Earltown.

Robert (Bob) Forbes, late of Denmark, NS, and a great, great grandson of William “Achany”, generously shared the letters several years ago.   Over the next few weeks, examples of the letters will be posted along with some background comments.

The MacLeod Road is accessed about 1/2 kilometre south of The Falls Cemetery on Highway 311.   Today it leads up the hill and terminates on a vacant farm.  Few people realize that it was once a through road to the community of Kavanagh’s Mills.

The first farm, as one starts up the hill, was originally the homestead of Donald MacLeod, (1803-1876).  Donald was born in Kilbraialhaid, Clyne, a crofting community in Strath Brora.  At the age of 18, he emigrated with his widowed father Hugh, sisters Marion and Margaret and brother John.   They were passengers on the Ossian of Cromarty and arrived in the port of Pictou in 1821.

The family were first allotted land at West Earltown on the farm last inhabited by Joe MacKay.  It was a low lying acreage on the Waugh River in the shadow of Spiddle Hill.  Hugh complained to the authorities that it was unsuitable due to late frosts.  The family then acquired land at The Falls,  Donald on the subject property and John directly across the river.  Their sister Marion married William Sutherland “Ban” who had settled immediately to the south of Donald.

Donald married Barbara Gunn, (1816-1879), a daughter of William Gunn of Strath Halladale, Parish of Raey.  The Gunns didn’t come to Nova Scotia until the 1830’s, settling briefly at Middle River and then eventually settling on the Charles McGill farm at West Earltown.  Barbara’s brother Hugh settled near East Earltown while another brother, Alex, lived for a time near Earltown Lake before settled at Brule.

This couple had a family of ten including a son William who settled the  southern half of the property which runs along the MacLeod Road at the crest of the hill.  He was the father of Geordie MacLeod who took over that property and the grandfather of Don MacLeod who retired to the farm around 1970.  The property is now the summer home of Joyce Ferguson.

Donald Sr.’s younger son John, (1858-1933),  took over the main homestead.  He married Elizabeth (Bess) MacKay, daughter of John MacKay “Black” and Janet MacDonald “Salt” of Balfron.  They had a family of eight including Barbara Murray of Rossville, Catherine Murray of Waugh River, Jessie Gunn of Brule,  Dan Robert and Alex in British Columbia, John and Marion died young and John Will MacLeod, the hier to the property.

John Will was a confirmed bachelor and farmed the homestead well into his seventies.  He sported a Model A Ford from 1930 until shortly before his death in 1971.  He was an elder in the United Church.

The farm was then owned by an Anderson family during the 1970’s. It is now the home of Jack Ferguson.

On the crest of the hill are a couple of homes of more recent vintage.

At the edge of the forest, a branch of the road veers to right and enters another early homestead of The Falls.  This place was originally granted to a Francis Henry but there is no evidence of this man ever improving the property.  The earliest settlers appear to be Widow Catherine Sutherland and her two unmarried sons,  George and Angus.  Catherine was the widow of a George Sutherland in the hamlet of Eilanan, Strath Brora.  George seems to have died in the old country before Catherine and her five sons emigrated in 1821.  It would appear that they first lived on the property now owned by Reg Terry, (Caribou Sutherland homestead), but gave it up for a series of properties along the MacLeod Road. Land documents show that the family was a given a survey ticket to occupy this lot. After clearing a field and planting their potatoes, it was discovered that Francis Henry still had a claim.  The matter was eventually resolved. The last of this family to live on the property was George Jr. who died around 1880.

The next permanent resident was Donald (Dan) MacLeod, (1857-1922).  He was a son of Donald MacLeod and Barbara Gunn.  He married Margaret Baillie of West Earltown.  They lived in an old style house on the bank of a small brook.  They had three children, Danny, twins Barbara and Willie John.   Barbara died unmarried in Boston.  Danny, unmarried, lived with his Baillie aunts and uncles at Kavanagh’s Mills.  Willie John took over the farm and built the present house.  He was married to Sadie Hayman of Balmoral.  This couple had four children.  After Willie John died in 1959, Sadie moved to the Dan Baillie house at The Falls.  Dan MacRae lived there briefly before the place was acquired by Tommie Pugh.  The Pugh’s moved to Bass River around 1980.  It is currently owned by Geoff Crinean.

Continuing along, the branch road crests a second hill before forking.  The right fork leads through the woods to the bank of the Baillie Brook where we find the remains of a small farm.  This was the home of Paul MacDonald and his sister Christy.  They were two of several unmarried children of William MacDonald “Paul” and Jane Matheson of Earltown.  Christy died in 1911 and Paul shortly thereafter.  The farm was added to the Dan MacLeod farm.  It is now part of the Dorje Denma Ling Centre to the north.

The left fork of the branch road used to lead along the MacLeod clearing to the Matheson farm.  Today the property is accessed by a new road further up the main MacLeod Road.  This property was originally part of the James Foreman grant which extended across the Baillie Brook to Tatamagouche Mountain.  It was first settled on the Tatamagouche Mountain side by Hiram Downing.  The east side of the brook, (150 acres), was subdivided and sold to Dan MacKay, Achany, in the 1870’s. Local lore tells that a hermit lived on a small clearing on this property for several years.  Dan MacKay doesn’t appear to have lived on the lot.  He eventually took over his father’s farm on the Peter MacDonald road.

George Matheson, (1847-1928),  was the first permanent settler.  He was a son of Gilbert Matheson and Annie MacLean of Upper Kemptown.  He was married to Christy MacDonald (MacAddie), of The Falls.  They lived on the Carl Beck farm at Balfron when they were first married but returned it to its former owner and settled on this property.  They built a small house and cleared fifty acres for cultivation.  It was the last farm to be cleared at The Falls.  George and Christy had eight children:  Adam lived on Nuttby before moving to Montesano, Washington,  Gilbert of Trenton,  Bill of Olympia, Washington, Gordon, Margaret Polson of Montesano, Cassie died young, Tena MacIntosh of Oliver and Bessie Nelson of Nappan.

Gilbert and his first wife, Maud Hiscox, enlarged the house with intentions of taking over the homestead.  Maud died young and Gilbert went to Boston to work as a carpenter.  He returned with a second wife, Ellen Campbell,  and took up residence at Balfron before settling in Trenton.

After Gilbert’s departure, the youngest son, Gordon, came home from the west and took over the farm. He married a schoolteacher from College Grant,  Grace Murray.  They had four children,  George, Neta, Murray and Robert.   After Murray returned from service overseas, the family decided to vacate and take up farming in a less remote location at Balfron.  The MacLeod Road farm is still in the family.

Returning to the main MacLeod Road, we continue up the hill and past the new road to Mathesons.  At the top of the hill is the remains of the next farm.  In better days, it had a commanding view over the lowlands of North Colchester and the Northumberland Strait.  This was originally the farm of Robert Sutherland, son of Widow Catherine Sutherland.  He was born in Eilanan, Strath Brora in 1799.  He married Janet Sutherland, likely of Pictou County.  Their descendants were known as the MacRobbies.

This couple only had one known child,  George Robbie Sutherland.  George Robbie continued on the farm and married his first cousin, Betsy Sutherland “MacIan”   They had four children,  James and John who both died as young men, Christy, (Mrs. Johnny Munro of Willow Church Road), and Jennie Bell.

Jennie Bell took over the farm.  She was married to Jim MacDonald of Upper Kemptown.  Jim was known as “Corbett”, a reference to a well known boxer at the turn of the century.  Jennie Bell and Jim had two daughters, Christy who died young, and Elsie who married Lewis Cook.  Elsie and Lewis lived for a few years in a small cabin on the lower part of the property.

Jim and Jennie Bell retired to Kemptown to live with Elsie and Lewis.  The place has been vacant since and under the ownership of Donald Sutherland and his son Douglas.

The road continues a short distance over the crest of the hill and presently terminates in another old ruin.  This was the homestead of Alexander Sutherland better known in the district as Laughing Sandy Sutherland.  Laughing Sandy was a brother to Robert “MacRobbie” , George and Angus who lived on the preceding farms.  He came to Nova Scotia with his widowed mother and four brothers.  His wife, Christy Baillie, was also a native of  Clyne and the eldest daughter of George Baillie, Catechist, of Spiddle Hill.  They had seven children.  Only two married, Margaret to John MacDonald of Shinimicas, and Catherine to John Sutherland, Shawnee, of the Berrichan.   The last two children to live on the farm were Elspy and Robert.  The farm was later associated with the Sterling Matheson property at The Falls as a woodlot.

At this point, the road can no longer be navigated by motor vehicles.  A hiker can follow the old road down the grade and eventually come out on a vacant farm above the Kavanagh’s Mills Road.  This small farm was originally granted to Edward Studivan.   Studivan, so the story goes, was actually Edward Denoon, the son of a Scottish land agent, Hugh Denoon.   Denoon Sr. recruited settlers for the Pictou District in the Highlands and brought them over in over crowded boats in the 1801-1803 time frame.  Edward chose his wife’s maiden name for his surname.   They had at least three sons,  William, Murdoch and John.   William was the ancestor of the present day family on Studivan Mountain.  Murdoch and John settled in Cumberland County.

After Edward Studivan moved on, the farm was acquired by Geordie Sutherland “MacIan”.  He was a son of John Sutherland and Christy Ferguson.  His father John lived across the brook on the Kavanagh’s Mills Road and was the original MacIan or Macin as it was pronounced. John was a brother to Laughing Sandy,  Robert, George and Angus.  Thus the whole family of Widow Catherine were settled on the entire length of the MacLeod Road.

Geordie “MacIan”, (1841-1914), was married to Margaret Baillie, a daughter of Robert Baillie and Isabel MacKay of West Earltown.  They had eight children.  Son Robert lived at Durham, John in New Westminister, Dan died in WWI,  Hugh died young,  Jim and Geordie Macin Jr. lived on the home place unmarried.  A daughter Bella never married and another daughter,  Christy, married Paul MacDonald at Central Earltown.

The MacLeod Road crosses the Baillie Brook below the former farm house and joins the Kavanagh’s Mill Road.  This is the boundary between Earltown and New Annan.

Map with code: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?hl=en&authuser=0&mid=zWuNe7Aar9m4.kTJ1hRJWA7vA